Cernek.org Blog

The road to Yellowstone National Park is Highway 89 north out of Jackson, past the Grand Teton Range to the west. May 16 is overcast and cold, but it is hard to dampen spirits with country like this all around us.

We usually save the sightseeing for Jeep travel, but this country is so spectacular. We won’t be down this way in the Jeep; so the large turnouts on the highway are quite to our liking. It gives the driver a chance to savor the scenery, and we can learn a few facts.

The snowbanks on the side of the road are higher than our heads in some areas. We are between 7,000 and 8,000 feet altitude. The RV park where we will be staying opened only a few days ago.

The condition of this sign would imply there is a lot of work yet to be done to fully prepare for the summer visitors. We might have missed this beautiful waterfall had we not happened to pay attention to the broken sign. Finding things may prove to be a challenge.

The Lewis River has carved out a path under the overhang of snow.

Not having been here before, we have nothing to compare to; however, it would appear that there is a lot of snowmelt coming over the falls.

We have not had the RV in this much snow ever before. I think it may be a long time before we have it in this much snow again! It’s nice to know that the night time temps are remaining pretty much above freezing – just!

Remember the taste of a frozen icicle? Well, those of you in “winter” country will. Maybe not so much in Arizona.

Fishing Bridge RV Campground is at the north end of Yellowstone Lake, a very large 430-feet deep lake. It looks like it is still frozen over, but looks can be deceiving. Because of the volcanic activity in the region, there may be warm spots that cause the ice to thaw in places on the surface of the lake. It doesn’t sound like a good idea to try driving the Jeep out onto the ice!

We are tucked into our campsite. Just as we are thinking about closing up for the night (the days are getting longer and longer) the near full moon is rising out our front window. Wow!

Our weather forecast is for rain and snow showers for pretty much our entire stay. Lucky for us, the clouds didn’t listen to the weatherman. We are enjoying partly sunny or partly cloudy weather depending on how you want to look at it.

There are two loops to drive around in the park in order to see all of the important stuff. Today, our first day out, we are doing the northern most loop. It will entail the most driving. We are rewarded within ten miles of our campsite with the first sighting of steam.

Not far from our first sighting of steam vents is Sulphur Caldron. Sulphur Caldron lives up to its name. The smell of rotten eggs would make these pictures so much more real!

As the interpretive sign says, Sulphur Caldron is almost as acidic as battery acid. Thermoacidophiles thrive in this environment, converting hydrogen sulfide gas into sulfuric acid. This isn’t a hot tub to warm  your bones in on a cool day.

We have discovered a portion of the loop road is closed. Winter is still having its way up in these parts. The plan changes to travel clockwise around the loop with a considerable backtrack to get home. Oh, well. Nothing’s for nothing. Being here this early in the season has certainly gained us some stunning views not seen after the snow is gone.

Norris Geyser Basin is our next stop. This is where it becomes very real. We are walking around in the caldera of an active volcano. That isn’t one of the most comforting thoughts I’ve had in a while; yet it is very much the case. This volcano isn’t erupting, but it is certainly belching and bubbling.

This view is something from another world. Should we step off the path, our hiking boots could be eaten through so rapidly that we would sustain burns before we were able to regain the walkway. That is incentive not to be a trailblazer if there ever was one!

This small geyser is named “Constant Geyser.” A well deserved name too. While not a big show, this little guy puts on a consistent show.

This picture could easily be enlarged, framed, and hung for fine artwork. The lines and swirls and contrast of colors holds one’s attention.

When the camera backs away from the pool above, the flow takes on the look of industrial effluvium. It does not look inviting to put a foot into.

The thermoacidophiles are evident in the artwork that is created in this pool. A lot of factors go into creating the various colors – temperature and acidity of the water are certainly important ingredients in the recipe.

These rust-colored pools are actually bubbling away. It is difficult to catch the bubbles bursting on the surface, but it is a very active puddle.

The pastels of this pool were my favorite — pinks, greens, blues.

This little guy may not be as dramatic as a huge geyser, but when you think about it, the very fact that any water shooting up out of the ground without the benefit of a water pump is to be marveled over.

These two holes look very similar; yet one has a rusty color and the other does not. One seems active, the other dormant. They are side by side. Very interesting.

This beautiful little hot tub looks somewhat inviting. I’m thinking that the acid factor could be a huge deterrent. Also exactly what is the temperature? Boiling?

Since it may be 50 years before this geyser goes off again, I don’t think we will hang around for it. I have included the picture from the interpretive board since that is the only picture of this one in full blow.

The ranger that was sharing information at this site informed us that frequent “spurts” was an indicator that an eruption was about to happen. We are seeing quite a few pretty peppy spurts.

The path continues beyond and below Steamboat Geyser. The runoff from the geyser activity is a waterfall of colors created by the thermoacidophiles. Those little organisms are busy!

Looking back up at Steamboat Geyser we can still see quite a frequent spurt of water. Wouldn’t it be great if it went off right now? We are the only ones in the area. Would anyone believe us?

Just below Steamboat is Echinus Geyser. It has a whole different personality.

Back up at Steamboat we are still hoping for that big one.

Driving along the loop highway, the terrain changes dramatically within a very short distance. All of a sudden we pass through this rocky outcropping. Nothing in the landscape resembled it before or after. It is only right in this one spot. Go figure.

The signs say not to approach the bison. These big boys and girls are lolling around on the village green. It is difficult not to be close. The town of Mammoth Hot Springs seems to have a lot of bison, or buffalo, and elk. I think they are hanging around for the warmth the springs provide.

This big guy was posing so perfectly for me that one would think he was a statue complete with shaggy fur. His beard shows up nicely, I think.

It will be difficult to have a picnic and not approach the elk. They have already claimed this picnic area for a group event.

These terraces of dry hot springs are a perfect place to take one’s afternoon nap. How many bison before him back in the eons have found this to be a pleasant place to nap?

Elk have the biggest target on their buts. One can’t help but spot them from quite a distance when they are moving away from you. Is that something that could possibly serve them well in the fight for survival?

I am still using my zoom lens to get these shots, but these animals are right in the same area as the people are moving around in. No wonder people get the idea that these animals won’t hurt you.

The water sometimes flows heavily from the hot springs and other times not so much. This dormant hot springs core is dry as dust at the moment.

The color is only on the hot springs that are currently wet. Since the color comes from the thermoacidophiles, when the water dries up, the thermoacidophiles can’t live, the color disappears. The chalk white terraces have a beauty of their own.

The Visitor’s Center on the left in the picture below as well as the other buildings to the right were built by the U.S. Cavalry when this was Fort Yellowstone. The Cavalry’s job was to protect the national park. When the Park Service was created in 1916, the soldiers left; however, little else changed.

Undine Falls is just east of Mammoth Hot Springs. As with every other waterfall we have seen in the park, this one is dramatic. We have heard that the falls around the park have not yet reached their highest flow for this season. Now that’s impressive.

Being every mindful to not hit the bison, we drive very slowly past this beauty as she grazes next to the road.

We have turned around and are now backtracking over road we have just traveled to get back to our campground. The view is so different going in the opposite direction that it is like traveling a different route. On the way into Mammoth Hot Springs we saw the pullout for the springs that are above the town. We must stop and see if they are worth a picture.

Oh, yeah. This place is magical!

The water isn’t frozen, but the rock formation gives that impression.

What do you think? Is this not one of the most beautiful scenes in the park, or what?

Bringing the zoom back to get a picture of the whole. Wow!

Here is another picture to either frame and hang or put on a Christmas card.

Ed and I are both absolutely entranced with this place.

Whether you focus in on a particular feature or pull back for the full majesty of this place, it is all good.

As we finally pulled ourselves away from this magical scene, we find a bunny sitting quietly right next to the path. He was very much alive but never moved. Maybe if you play like you are as stony as the scene around you, no one will eat you!

Another pullout we missed going down the hill into town is the Golden Gate. We must see it now on our way back.

We are very happy to learn that the “rickety wooden structure” has been replaced with the nice sturdy version below!

Another gorgeous waterfall. They are everywhere! They are all flowing gallons and gallons and gallons and gallons of water!

We are passing by these animals very slowly. It appears that some of the herd is contemplating crossing the road.

This mama and baby are definitely thinking about it. She starts to go across the road and then backs away. The calf cannot be very many days old.

We made it back to the campground and took the next day off. It is really tiring having so much fun! It is now Thursday, May 19. Today the loop road that lies to the west of us is the plan. Kepler Cascades is the first attraction, and it appears that our boots may have been a good idea.

We have walked across the snow to get to this bridge. It is cleared off on the very edges, sort of.

It is sort of getting to the point of “Oh, it’s just another pretty waterfall.” Can we be getting that jaded? Actually, not true. Each time we find another beautiful spot, it is time to stop and breathe it all in.

The main attraction on our route today is Old Faithful. Anyone who goes to Yellowstone Park has to see Old Faithful. That’s almost one of the rules, isn’t it? We have arrived when the famous geyser is taking a break.

One of the people starting to gather has shared with us that anytime within the next ten to twenty-five minutes Old Faithful is due to erupt. Maybe we should grab a front row seat on the side away from where the mist is blowing. As we wait, the crowd continues to gather. I’m thinking it is nothing like what will be out here in July or August waiting for this thing to blow.

Pretty much right on schedule, the activity starts picking up. Because of the weather conditions today, we are not going to see a fountain of water but rather a fountain of mist. There is a fog created by the warm water meeting cold air that is successfully shrouding the fountain of water. The eruption is still an impressive event!

I’ll save you the other 999 pictures I took of the happening. This is the wrap-up picture. You can take a lot of pictures in the few minutes that Old Faithful is doing its thing.

One of the things I am very interested in doing is having lunch at the Old Faithful Inn. Built during the winter of 1903 – 1904 in a style that became known as “National Park Service Rustic,” it is one of the few log hotels still standing in the United States. The style uses lodgepole pine, both log and limb, in the construction. When the inn opened in the spring of 1904 it offered the comforts of electric lights and steam heat. What luxury!

The large balcony off the front of the hotel affords a view of Old Faithful. Everything in this area is designed around an arc of a circle with the geyser in the middle. You can feel the history in these logs. I can imagine myself enjoying a luxury vacation in an earlier, more genteel time. Of course, I would have had the money to do it!

The view off the other side of the balcony.

The seating on the balcony is all directed to watching the eruption of the geyser. I wonder if it were always this way. We will have to try to catch another eruption after lunch from this vantage point.

Not only is there a balcony overlooking the outside world, but inside there are three tiers of balconies that have seating where one can sit and look down on the comings and goings in the lobby.

When looking up from the floor of the lobby, I noticed a very interesting catwalk and platform high in the ceiling. I want to go there.

Bummer! 7.5 on the Richter Scale is pretty scary. I can’t imagine what it would have felt like to be up there when it was happening. Is that a cool place or what?

/

There are benches all around the second tier and third tier balconies. One can relax and have a bird’s-eye view of the comings and goings in the lobby. What a concept.

This fireplace is amazing. I would love to see it cranked up and heating up this place. It is magnificent. Sitting in one of the chairs around it in the dead of winter would be so-o-o cozy!

The architecture of the interior of this space is one to marvel at. Standing on the lobby floor and looking up through the various levels, one wonders how this idea ever came into Robert Reamer’s head. Reamer was an architect for the Yellowstone Park Company, which was affiliated with the Great Northern Railway. Harry Child, president of the Yellowstone Park Company met Reamer in San Diego through mutual acquaintances. What a gift Reamer had!

Yep! That bit of dark stuff on the walkway is buffalo poo! Talk about picking up after your pet! Everyone seems to be walking around it; although a few seem to have walked through it. Baggy anyone?!?!

Here goes Old Faithful again. This time we are observing from the balcony of the inn. The view is better, and I think the wind is giving us a better display this time.

Yeah! We are seeing the geyser in all its glory. Wow! A column of water that high just shooting up out of the ground under pressure from unseen forces. Even in today’s world of special effects, this is pretty amazing stuff.

 

Heavily mineralized water was drawn into this trees by the roots. The base of the tree became petrified. One can’t live with one’s base petrified, can one? The process creates a “white sock” on the base of the tree; thus “bobby sock” tree.

This is a really great example of thermoacidophiles at work. They are responsible for the rust color of the bacteria mat.

You can get lost in the blue of Silex Spring. This little pool is the most amazing color blue. It looks very  inviting except for the hole in it that seems to go into the bowels of the earth.

These paint pots are the most beautiful piece of dirt I have ever seen. The decor is in aquas and pinks that a decorator would die for! Where does this come from out of nowhere? All of the surrounding ground looks like regular dirt!

The bubbling action is mesmerizing to watch.

This area is a bit drier. The bubbling action is stopped, but the color is still vibrant.

A perfect recipe for a paint pot.

So there are two circles. One is aqua. One is pink. One still bubbles (the pink one) and one doesn’t. They are side by side. This is not what the ground I am used to does.

I was absolutely fascinated by Red Spouter. It kept sending up these splurts of red water. Red Spouter is rather erratic, but doesn’t stop. I couldn’t stop watching it.

 

Here again we have a situation of two side by side puddles. One, Red Spouter, is busy spurting water into the air while the other is just being a puddle. I’m sure a geologist would have the answers for me, but I think I would rather just marvel at the wonders of nature. I am more ready to go with magic here than science.

The wind is blowing, and it is cold! A good friend of mine, Eva, gifted me the cap, scarf, and gloves. Thank you, Eva! They are being enjoyed to the fullest today! Just think. Back in Arizona it is in the 90′s. We are a long way from home right now.

Okay. This park does belong to the buffalo! That is a ranger trying to herd these beasts off the road out of harm’s way. It isn’t working. Every time he thinks he has them over to the side, they pop back up onto the road. They obviously have their own agenda.

 

We finally get the go-ahead to go around them. I know for a fact that you don’t want to hit one of these guys for a whole slew of reasons. We are driving very slowly and very carefully.

And yet another waterfall to photograph. They truly are everywhere at this time of year.

We run into a second buffalo jam. This time there is no ranger to do the herding. It is up to us to figure out how to maneuver around them. They aren’t helping as you can see in this picture. Were she moving, her front feet wouldn’t be together.

Notice where the center line on the highway is. I’m pretty sure they have planned to be on both sides of it. And I was afraid I wouldn’t get a great shot of a buffalo.

The Yellowstone River.

We have arrived at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. It is just up from our campground, but we have saved it for last.

The falls are absolutely magnificent. They are taller than some that we have seen. They are surrounded by a view that can’t be equaled anywhere in the park.

The canyon walls are full of color.

 

I see this framed on the wall of the permanent home we will live in when we are finished with this chapter in our lives. Don’t worry. It won’t be soon, God willing!

 

Walking across the snow worked for a little way, but then I seemed to sink in a bit.

We have driven around to the Upper Falls of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.

/

To prevent erosion, stay on the trail. What trail? I’m sure that in the summertime this sign must make much more sense. Right now it makes no sense at all!

This ends our time in Yellowstone National Park. If you haven’t been here, think about making the trip. It holds so many incredible sights and you really can put body and soul back together quite effectively just taking in the peace and serenity. This time of year has its very own brand of “special.” Life is incredibly good!